Octogenarian Odyssey

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Nov 24

March 8, 2024

By Odyssey

Yesterday, we finally got some sun, and I could remove a few layers. I had a great morning in the sun with a mighty tailwind that had me cruising at 34kph. Along the road, there were hundreds, yes, hundreds of Guanacos. Every day in Patagonia brings sightings of furry llama-like animals called guanacos, the wild relatives of alpacas. Besides Guanacos, I saw Rheys running along the side of the highway, as well as a couple of foxes.

Other than the animals mentioned above, there was absolutely nothing, no people, no homes, no towns, nothing. I never saw a vehicle until 45 minutes riding down ruta 40. Ruta 40 is the famous highway that runs from Bolivia to Ushuaia. We traveled on it when we were in northern Argentina.

When the girls finally arrived, they showed me all the new food. They had lots of fruit, bananas, apples, and blueberries. They had bread, water, eggs, and more, along with a bag of chocolate bars. They explained that the grocery store owner had asked them where they were from and what brought them to Perito Moreno. They told the story of octoodyssey, and he was so impressed he gave them the groceries for free—his donation to the cause.

We reached Baja Caracoles and checked into a small hostel. This town has a population of 30, a small school, a hotel with a restaurant and a police station. We walked over to the small hotel and found the sticker capital of the world. All the travelers on Route 40 stop here as there is nothing South for 250k and nothing North for 133k. So, everyone stops to buy gas, eat, or spend the night. Everyone leaves a sticker. The gas pumps are covered, the windows, and even in the small store, there are plenty of stickers. Yes, we left one on the gas pump handle. Travelers are very creative when designing stickers to give away when they travel. That night, I ate in the hostel and paid 10,000 pesos for a bowl of pasta. That was USD 10 or USD 25 if I paid by credit card. Remember the exchange rates. The girls ate their leftover lunches and remarked that we paid $14 each for a bed and $10 for pasta. Since they have a long journey to buy groceries, they must charge more, like the prices in the Yukon.

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